Botswana

Once again I have neglected my blog. When people ask me what country I am up to they invariably laugh that I am still in the B's. In my defence, there are a LOT of nations beginning with B, including of course Botswana.

The land surface of Botswana is 70% covered by the Kalahari Desert. The people of this semi-arid savanna are, by necessity, an extremely resourceful people who make use of what the gods provide. For instance if the gods saw fit to gift an empty coke bottle to their chosen people, the Kalihari Bushmen would see not trash, but a grindstone, a musical instrument, or a paining tool. Such are the ways of these people. While the Bushmen of the Kalahari may be the most famous of the Botswana people, it is the 'Batswana' or 'Tswana' people that make up over 80% of the population, and for whom the country is named. 

Prior to European rule, these people lived as herders and farmers in numerous different tribes. Like the rest of Africa however, this was destined to change. In 1885 the British established the 'Bechuanaland Protectorate' after appeals by King Khama III, chief of the Bamangwato, a large Batswana tribe, to provide support against his enemies. After surviving several assassination attempts by his own father Sekgoma, and ultimately defeating him in a war for the chieftainship, Khama wanted to hang on to his rule. With incursions coming from the Boers in the south, Ndebele from what is now Zimbabwe in the north, and German colonists in the west, Khama aligned himself with British colonial interests and secured British protection for his territories. The existence of modern day Botswana is largely due to the efforts of Khama, who went so far as to travel to England to petition against Cecil Rhodes himself, who wanted to make the protectorate a colony open to white settlement. Khama was successful, and ultimately the Republic of Botswana was established in 1966 after a period of British protectorship. Khama's lineage continues to rule modern Botswana, with his great-grandson Seretse Khama Ian Khama holding power since 2008.

Economically, Botswana is one of the success stories in Africa. The nation has one of the fastest per capita growth rates in the world, and one of the highest levels of economic freedom in Africa. They also boast one of the least corrupt governments in Africa. Despite this economic success, Botswana is experiencing one of, if not the worst HIV/Aids epidemics in the world. Almost a quarter of 15-49 year olds are HIV positive, and I was astounded to discover that the life expectancy at birth has plummeted from 65 to 35!

With the frightening spectre of the HIV epidemic, and the optimism of economic prosperity, the people of Botswana must be experiencing such a unique, and at times contradictory way of life that western stereotypes of Africa fail to comprehend. The BBC and HBO recently sought to dispel the common African stereotype with their comedy/ drama series,  'The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency'. This was the first major television or film production to be set and filmed in Botswana ('The Gods Must Be Crazy, while set in Botswana, was filmed in South Africa), and according to producers, the show attempts to present a modern, relatively prosperous African nation to a large audience, and do justice to the people of Botswana. While I am yet to see the show, I certainly intend on seeing what is hopefully an accurate (albeit comedic) portrayal of life in a southern African city.

Botswanan, like other southern African cuisine, is known as 'Rainbow Cuisine' as it adopts many cultural influences from Europe and Asia. Thankfully this meant I could find the required ingredients in my local supermarket. I was sceptical about finding a supply of Mopane worm, a popular delicacy cooked in hot ashes. Interestingly though, the watermelon is thought to have originated in Botswana; a fact I discovered after already preparing this supposed Botswanan version of groundnut stew. The groundnut (which comes from west Africa) is replaced here by the peanut (native to Peru) so I am hopeful that this dish falls under the banner of Botswanan rainbow cuisine and I can move on the the next B on the list.

(Botswanan) Groundnut Stew

Ingredients

500g Diced Chicken breast
1 Tbsp Vegetable oil
1 Onion, chopped.
1 Green capsicum, chopped 

1 Cup Water
1/2 Cup Peanut butter
1 Can Tomato paste
1 Tsp Grated fresh ginger root
2 Tbsp brown sugar
Pinch of ground red pepper

Directions

In a bowl, combine the sugar, red pepper, ginger, peanut butter, and tomato paste. Slowly stir in the water, a small amount at a time, until the sauce is smooth. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, cooking 5-7 minutes until onion is translucent. Add cut-up chicken and capsicum. Cook until the chicken and the onion are browned.

Pour in the peanut sauce and stir well. Cover the pot simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

To serve, spoon stew over rice balls (cooked white rice that is mashed and formed into balls), or on a bed of white rice.

This very simple dish was surprisingly delicious and was served with sautéed spinach leaves (to substitute native African greens).

Bosnia & Herzegovina

I have just come back from the Christmas break, and while Foodysseus may have been ignored for the better part of a month, I have certainly been busy sampling food, drink, and more food from around the world (unfortunately for the waistline, cheese was a major ingredient). So I am getting back into the swing of things with my second visit to the Balkans. This region is fast becoming a favourite of mine and Bosnia and Herzigovina has served up a treat.

I know little of B & H and much of what I do comes from growing up during the Bosnian wars of the 1990s. As a 10 year old, you don't pay much attention to wars happening on the other side of the world, so I am still not entirely sure about who was fighting who and why. Still, upon hearing the name Bosnia and Herzegovina, I recall images of shelled streets, muddy refugees, and mass graves (it also conjures images of Eva Herzigova in a wonder bra so it's not all bad). Even before the wars of the 1990's, B & H had a tumultuous history. The nation was once part of the Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Austro-Hungarian Empires before becoming part of the Kingdom of Serbia. In 1914, Sarajevo, the capital city of B & H, was the location of the assassination of the Austro-Hungarian heir, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand. This event, in simple terms, is seen as the trigger that began World War I.

Essentially, the Austro-Hungarians were unhappy about their heir presumptive being blown up, and issued a letter to the Kingdom of Serbia (later Yugoslavia) with a number of demands. The Serbs were not cowed and mobilised their armies with the support of the Russians. The Austro-Hungarians then declared war which set off a domino effect of treaties. The Triple Alliance brought Germany and Italy into the fray for Austro-Hungary, while the Triple Entente dragged Britain and France in for the Russians.

After the wars, the region was part of communist Yugoslavia, and didn't gain independence until 1992. This was followed by 3 years of the confusing Balkan wars of my childhood memory. Since the end of the conflict B & H has seen a resurgence in tourism. There are some beautiful natural and architectural sites, world class ski fields (Sarajevo hosted the 1984 winter olympics), as well as the vibrant city of Sarajevo itself which has earned the nickname of 'Jerusalem of Europe' for it's multiculturalism. In fact the Virgin Mary herself is a frequent visitor to the B & H town of Medjugorje, appearing to six local Catholics at a set time every month, and sparking a pilgrimage of over 30 million people since 1981. Visitors often experience visions such as the sun spinning in the sky or changing colors and figures such as hearts and crosses around the sun. Now I don't want to discredit the believers, but someone should be checking which kind of mushrooms they are serving in their goulash.

Speaking of food (segue five!) this recipe was a winner. The cevapi (cha-vah-pee) is considered the national dish of B & H, and is a type of kebab with grilled mince meat. It is often served with Kajmak, a popular Bosnian cheese spread, and Avjar, an eggplant and capsicum relish.

Ćevapi

Ingredients

500g Lean ground beef

500g Lean ground lamb 

1 Yellow onion, finely chopped

3 Large cloves garlic, diced

4-5 Sprigs finally chopped parsley

1/4 Cup Hot water

1/2 Tsp Baking soda

Salt and Pepper to taste

Directions

Mix the meat, onion, garlic, and parsley in a bowl with the salt and pepper.

Add the baking soda to the water and then gently combine with the meat. It should remain course and loosely packed.

Put the meat mixture back in the fridge and let it sit for at least 2 hours, or overnight if possible. Once the meat has tenderised, pick of into little sausages about the size of a thumb. Cook under a grill until they are a deep brown colour.

Kajmak

Ingredients

1 1/2 Sticks salted butter (one stick is 1/4 pound or about 115g)

2 Tbsp Sour cream

4 Tbsp Ricotta cheese

250g (approx) Cream cheese

Directions

Soften the butter and cream cheese, then beat with electric mixer. Add the sour cream and ricotta to the butter and beat it until it’s creamy. Salt, hot sauce or paprika may be added if 

Ajvar

Ingredients

2 Large eggplants

6 Red Capsicum

1 Sweet onion (brushed in oil)

2-3 Cloves garlic

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt and black pepper

1/2 Cup Olive oil

Note: Parsley, basil, or chilli flakes can be added as a variation

Directions

Roast eggplant and onion at 250 c for about 30 min, turning until skin blackens and blisters. Once roasted, put in a bowl and cover with cling wrap to let steam and loosen the skins. Peel off the skin and discard, along with the seeds.

Add all ingredients to a food processor and blend to desired consistency.

Wrap the Cevapi in pita bread and add the Ajvar and Kajmak, along with chopped red onion and desired salads.

Apologies for the less than stellar photography.

Bolivia

Bolivia is a landlocked country smack bang in the middle of South America. It is the poorest nation on the continent, but it attracts thousands of thrill-seeking young backpackers each year. Backpackers to Bolivia are recognised by their alpaca beanie with earflaps, they take cocaine with prisoners in San Pedro prison, and they enjoy such activities as mountain biking the 'death road' in La Paz, and setting-off explosives in the silver mines of Potosi (compare backpackers to Australia who are recognised by their 3rd degree sunburn, they drink in English/ Irish pubs, and they enjoy such activities as a climbing the harbour bridge and patting kangaroos). As you can imagine, Bolivia is a Mecca for a different type of tourist.

Unfortunately for me, the first time I attempted to enter Bolivia I discovered that my passport was missing. Of course I immediately blamed the earless noseless Peruvian man that I had run into during Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria: an 18 day festival that involves legions of 'diablos' dancing and drumming their way through the streets of Puno 24 hours a day. The reality of the situation was far less sinister - I had left my passport on a boat. The moral of the story: Don't judge a book by it's cover (or lack thereof). I eventually did make it to Bolivia, but much to my dismay (and no doubt my parents delight) I didn't have time to visit San Pedro prison, mountain bike the death road, or set off dynamite in Potosi. It was difficult to get a grasp on the Bolivian people being there for such a short time, but one thing I noticed is that the South American revolutionary spirit is still alive and well in modern Bolivians.

Bolivia is in fact named after the South American Libertadores, Simon Bolivar, who led revolutions against the Spanish right across the continent. Further to this, Bolivians have a deep love of Ernesto 'Che' Guevara, another well known revolutionary (although ironically it was the Bolivian army who assassinated him on orders from the CIA). They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so rather than struggling to articulate the Bolivian guerilla psyche, I will show you a statue that is proudly displayed in the centre of a Bolivian town we stopped at. 

That is a Bolivian freedom fighter guzzling blood from the heart of a slain Spanish soldier. Of the aforementioned backpackers, you will not be surprised to hear that very few of them are Spanish. 

It is not just the revolutionaries that have a taste for human flesh. I read an article recently that described a Bolivian man committing suicide by throwing himself to a school of hungry pirañas. We were told that the flesh eating fish are harmless to humans (this was while fishing for them with chunks of raw beef in neck deep water). Turns out our local guide was wrong!

Thankfully the cuisine that is more commonly presented on Bolivian tables is far less gruesome, and infinitely more delicious. I cooked this meal when my other half was away and it is the perfect bachelor feast.

Silpancho

Ingredients

1 Cup White rice

3 Waxy variety potatoes

1 Green capsicum, diced

1/2 Red onion, diced

1 Tomato, diced
1 Fried Egg

2 Tsp Vinegar

2 Tsp Oil

500g ground beef

Salt

Pepper

3/4 Cup Breadcrumbs

4 Jalapenos

2 Tomatoes, cut into wedges

16 quilquina leaves (substitute with coriander)

Sunflower or Canola oil

Directions

Boil potatoes for 5-10 minutes until cooked half way through. At the same time cook rice as you normally would.

Massage reasonable amount of salt and pepper into beef with hands. Separate ground beef into 4 balls. Put the breadcrumbs in a pile on cutting board. Flatten each ball and press both sides into ground beef. Roll with a rolling pin on top of breadcrumbs sprinkled with more fresh pepper. Flip over beef patty and roll again. Continue rolling and flipping until the beef is the thinness of a crepe.

Drain potatoes, then slice into 1/4 inch rounds. Sauté in batches (without touching) on medium - high with 1 Tbsp oil. Cool on paper towels.

Cook beef patties in turn, and stack on a fresh plate when cooked. At the same time, fry four eggs and leave yolk runny. 

For the final topping combine diced onion, tomato, and capsicum, and dress in equal parts oil and vinegar, salted generously.

On each plate, put a scoop of rice in the center. Decorate the rim with five potatoes spaced evenly. Put the beef on top of the rice - the potatoes should be poking out from underneath. Put egg on top of beef, and the the colorful salad on top of the egg. Garnish with quilquina leaves or coriander and serve with hot sauce.